Gymkhana
I should preface that I have been to Gymkhana on numerous occasions, though mainly for social events. During those visits I was so engaged in the social aspects that I never had the chance to take any photos, so this review will focus solely on the food from my most recent visit.
Gymkhana remains one of my favorite Indian restaurants in London. I understand that many consider it overrated and undeserving of two Michelin stars, but for me it strikes a perfect balance of ambiance, comforting hospitality, and consistently enjoyable food. Do I believe the cuisine itself is at a true two-star level? Likely not. But the cooking is undeniably lovely and always leaves me satisfied.
Since Gymkhana received its second star, securing a reservation has become nearly impossible without planning well in advance. I remember when I could simply check their SevenRooms page and reliably find a table the same day, albeit often at 21:00 or later. Regardless, stepping foot into the restaurant transports you to another time. The staff are immediately welcoming, and the combination of aromas and the energy in the room is intoxicating. But without further ado, the food:
The first was a dish I was particularly anticipating, but it fell slightly short of expectations. The venison filling, while aromatic, leaned dry and lacked the succulence and depth of flavor one might expect from a keema preparation. The naan itself was soft with a pleasant chew, and the accompanying cucumber and cumin raita offered a well-judged cooling contrast that helped bring balance to each bite. (7.8 /10)
This has long been my most frequently ordered dish at Gymkhana and for good reason. The balance of spice, texture, and depth is exceptional. It leans noticeably spicy, but in a way that feels purposeful rather than excessive, enhancing the rich flavor of the kid goat. The crisp salli adds contrast and texture, while the soft pao absorbs the sauce beautifully. Altogether, it remains one of the most complete and satisfying dishes on the menu. (9.3 /10)
Traditional at its core, yet elevated through remarkable execution. The smokiness of the chicken cuts through the richness of the sauce, giving the dish depth and character beyond the typical butter chicken. Each bite carries layers of flavor — buttery, tangy, and faintly charred — all in perfect harmony. It’s an absolutely delightful course, and one I’ll be ordering every time I return. Few renditions compare, perhaps only rivaled by Veeraswamy. (9.0 /10)
Gymkhana
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Purushothaman Sundararaju
Location: London, United Kingdom
Date of Visit: 05.09.2024
One Michelin Star
