Ristorante Lorelei
After a long day of traveling from Naples and wandering through the ruins of Pompeii, we arrived at Ristorante Lorelei in Sorrento, slightly disheveled, backpacks still in hand, and admittedly underdressed. To their immense credit, the staff welcomed us with grace and warmth, leading us to a stunning terrace table perched high above the sea. The view alone was enough to pause time. The coastline stretched endlessly, kissed by the setting sun, while the faint hum of waves below accompanied the clinking of glasses and the distant murmur of conversation.
I began the evening with a Negroni, its bitterness cutting beautifully through the heavy summer air. Sitting there, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, I felt an almost meditative gratitude — the kind that comes when every element of travel aligns unexpectedly. Lorelei, part of the Hotel Lorelei Londres, is positioned on the edge of a cliff and carries a natural sense of drama — one that demands excellence from its kitchen.
With only ninety minutes before our train, we opted for the à la carte selections, a concise trio of courses showcasing the essence of Sorrento’s seafood and the purity of local ingredients.
To begin, a tartare of raw red shrimp with cuttlefish lard, cannellini beans, and finger lime, lightly marinated in roasted olive oil. The dish arrived as a small circular composition, the shrimp cut with surgical precision and arranged as if sculpted rather than plated. Its color alone, a deep coral red, stood out against the pale cream of the beans, with the translucent shimmer of cuttlefish fat lending both gloss and depth. The flavor was pure and marine, a balance between sweetness and salinity, with the finger lime adding just enough acidity to lift each bite. Elegant and deliberate, it set the tone for the evening. (8.8 /10)
Next came the seared octopus with ponzu sauce, salted custard, green beans, and a horseradish croquette. The octopus itself was superb, tender, deeply charred on the exterior, and seasoned with remarkable precision. Yet, while the cooking was faultless, the plating felt somewhat uninspired, lacking the visual refinement expected of a restaurant of this caliber. The croquette, though crisp, leaned too heavy on the horseradish, disrupting the balance of an otherwise perfect octopus dish. (7.7 /10)
To close, the fish of the day in tempura with sweet-and-sour sauce. Technically flawless — the batter light, crisp, and without a trace of excess oil — yet conceptually, it felt too restrained for a main course. The execution was impeccable, but the composition leaned toward the rudimentary; the accompanying sauce, though pleasant, veered into the familiar territory of a standard sweet-and-sour. Still, as the evening light dimmed over the Sorrentine coast, the simplicity of the dish seemed almost fitting — an understated finale to a dinner defined by warmth, generosity, and an unforgettable setting. (7.6 /10)
Ristorante Lorelei
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Ciro Sicignano
Location: Sorrento, Italy
Date of Visit: 05.20.2024